Monday, April 27, 2009

Learning to read labels basics...

Common Ingredients
At present, the cosmetic industry selects from more than 5,000 different
ingredients. It's no wonder consumers can be perplexed when they see the list.
Here are some common cosmetic ingredients and their usual functions (active
drug ingredients are not included):

Moisturizers function as a moisture barrier or to attract moisture from the
environment:
* cetyl alcohol (fatty alcohol)--keeps oil and water from separating, also
a foam booster
* dimethicone--silicone skin conditioner and anti-foam ingredient
* isopropyl lanolate, myristate, and palmitate
* lanolin and lanolin alcohols and oil (used in skin and hair
conditioners)
* octyl dodecanol--skin conditioner
* oleic acid (olive oil)
* panthenol (vitamin B-complex derivative)--hair conditioner
* stearic acid and stearyl alcohol

Preservatives and antioxidants (including vitamins) to prevent product
deterioration:
* trisodium and tetrasodium edetate (EDTA)
* tocopherol (vitamin E)

Antimicrobials to fight bacteria:
* butyl, propyl, ethyl, and methyl parabens
* DMDM hydantoin
* methylisothiazolinone
* phenoxyethanol (also rose ether fragrance component)
* quaternium-15

Thickeners and waxes used in stick products such as lipsticks and blushers:
* candelilla, carnauba, and microcrystalline waxes
* carbomer and polyethylene--thickeners

Solvents to dilute:
* butylene glycol and propylene glycol
* cyclomethicone (volatile silicone)
* ethanol (alcohol)
* glycerin

Emulsifiers to break up and refine:
* glyceryl monostearate (also pearlescent agent)
* lauramide DEA (also foam booster)
* polysorbates

Color additives--synthetic organic colors derived from coal and petroleum
sources (not permitted for use around the eye):
* D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake (lakes are dyes that do not dissolve in
water)

Inorganic pigments--approved for general use in cosmetics, including for the
area of the eye:
* iron oxides
* mica (iridescent)

Hair dyes--phenol derivatives used in combination with other chemicals in
permanent (two-step) hair dyes:
* aminophenols

pH adjusters to stabilize or adjust acids and bases:
* ammonium hydroxide--in skin peels and hair waving and straightening
* citric acid--adjusts pH
* triethanolamine--pH adjuster used mostly in transparent soap

Others:
* magnesium aluminum silicate--absorbent, anti-caking agent
* silica (silicon dioxide)--absorbent, anti-caking, abrasive
* sodium lauryl sulfate--detergent
* stearic acid--cleansing, emulsifier
* talc (powdered magnesium silicate)--absorbent, anti-caking
* zinc stearate--used in powder to improve texture, lubricates.

Judith E. Foulke is a staff writer for FDA Consumer.


I hope this helps out for those who curious about some of the functions
on basic ingredients in cosmetics.


Danielle Ferreira

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